This is a fantastic build in record time for first time build plus you had to engineer the design yourself. Your building skills are great. Really good to see the evolution of the prints to where you have refined them. Look forward to your future builds.
I forgot to mention that I cut those by: 10-Inch 100 Tooth TCG Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor for Aluminum and Non Ferrous Metals with a miter saw http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012YMVBE/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Great build. I am working on something that is very similar. Mind if I asks you a whole bunch of questions Are you having any z-banding issues? Is there anything you would do different if you had to do it over again? Your printer is the first I have seen using a metal chain drive, how do you like it?
At first I used Marlin firmware and ReplicatorG host for awhile then I tried with Repetier firmware with Repetier host, then Marlin with Cura host, but finally I end up with Marlin firmware and Printrun host.
Are you having any z-banding issues? I don't see any problem with the Z. Is there anything you would do different if you had to do it over again? I like that way so far, haven't got any issue yet. Right now I just want to make it enclosed so I can control the chamber temperature. So I won't change. Your printer is the first I have seen using a metal chain drive, how do you like it? I tried the belt first on this project: http://openbuilds.com/builds/camera-slider-for-stacking-focus.224/ But I found out it took too much space between the moving plate and the rail, it noisy when running, and need to keep lot of tension to make it run good. Then I decided to go with the synchromesh cable. Things I don't like with that cable is the price and not much place sell it. But i love it.
What is the approx build area for this setup? Assuming the parts from the openbuilds and panucatt get restocked I think I'll be building one based on this design. ( only thing I think I would change is a base to put the power supply and controller in ) Also curious about your experience with the syncromesh. That seems like some really cool stuff!
The frame I made for X: 15", Y: 10", Z:15" But i'm using the short lead screw and small bed 8x8, so right now it can make 8x8x8 max The power and the board are mounted at the bottom on the back, they are attached to the frame (see picture) With the synchromesh cable, I'm loving it: quiet, smooth, precise, and use less space.
Hi, Sorry for the late respond, I just cut a V aluminum bar the drill a hole on it to make the bracket to mount Cuong
Hello, I noticed in some of your initial pictures you had a QU-BD style extruder/ hotend mounted, and then when you began printing, you were using a j-head hot end. Did the QU-BD style extruder not function very well? I'm just curious why you made the switch. I was looking at buying this extruder/ hotend: http://www.ebay.com/itm/0-4mm-Dual-...041?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51b9c36009 but I might not if they don't function very well. Regards