Thinking I may try playing with some of this to make plates for my future 3d printer Anyone try this stuff I hear its tuff to mill http://www.lairdplastics.ca/product/materials/composites/496-dibondr-product-information
My local guy prised me $69 a 4x8 sheet 1/4 inch think Im going to ask for a sample and run it on the mill when I get my red plexi
That's not bad! i expected it to be much more. I will have to look into this local. Maybe we could use a compression bit to mill it? http://www.harveytool.com/prod/Brow...tting-End-Mills---Compression-Cutter_187.aspx
I called and they have a sample for me. I will be stopping by tomorrow and will report back on its mill-ability It's tuff stuff for its weight
Didn't get there today as the local hospital had a issue with its generator. Got them all fixed up and found the flyer that gave me the idea of trying it.
So I got some samples to mill and so far just by looking at the stuff I think this will be useful As you can see my thumb is about to snap if I apply anymore pressure and this 6x6 1/8 plate didn't even flex Time to play
What are the application where one will use this stuff? Is it a replacement to aluminum? If it is a replacement, what is the advantage this material has over aluminum? Is it less costly?
Dude, could this be used on the outer hull of a boat? I mean like if you make a lot of cuts like a polygon render of a boat, and then smooth it over with fiberglass. The alternative is wood or foam+fiberglass. If it's light then it would be ideal because it could handle some pointed rock hitting it at 60mph on the sea, right?
Lol Well back on track, from what I'm reading Dibond does not play nice with pocketing. If to much of the aluminum layer is removed the strength weakens drastically. So for my testing and use I will be simply trying it as an alternative to 1/8 aluminum plates.
Do you think it is level enough to use as a build plate on a 3d printer? Seems being light and rigid would be good attributes.
I'm not sure as I'm not a 3D printer guy as of yet lol I'm not sure of its thero properties so if the hotbed will have direct contact then IMO I would say no because the inside layer is a plastic compound If the heated simply mounts to it then yes because it is used in signs so sun exposure and weather don't effect it's structure.
Wasn't thinking about a heated bed to be honest. You are quite right, it would probly be too insulated to heat properly. There are a few extrusion materials out there though that don't require a heated bed which is what made curious. Some of the less expensive machines offer an aluminum build plate (not heated) as an 'upgrade' so looking in to this material made me wonder.
Hmm I may use it then in my build. On the ropes as to how I want to build my printer, a none heated bed build would make things a lot more easy. I have the lead screws for its Z axis 500mm thread 10TPI same as what's moving my desktop mill. My main worrie is getting a good extruter as they tend to be the bulk of the cost and I don't have cash to toss out the window.
Just started looking in to those as well. Extruders and hot ends seem to also be the main point of trouble for hobby level printers. Most home built guys seem to stick to 3d printed extruders found online (thingeverse etc.) as a starting point seems to be getting a basic printer or access to one at a local fablab type establishment to make the parts for the do it yourself model. seemecnc's ezstruder has gotten some good reviews and looks very professional. Printrbot has just released an all machined aluminum extruder for their machines and it is also available separately though I think you still have to purchase the 'direct drive gear' part separate. QU-BD also sells an extruder but it has gotten mixed reviews from my online research.
