Laser V

All orders for the US will go through Open builds to save on shipping costs.
The board is an exact copy of what I'm using to control my Laser V project.
http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/laser-v.226/

My Hex file will be located in the build log for upload to your Arduino.
I will no longer be offering the Nanos and Stepsticks as the wait time is to long for the demand.
I feel it's just cheaper for you to source and you should know / learn to upload and configure GRBL anyway to truly use all of its features.
Shop around and I'm sure you will find a great deal with pins installed.

Laser V will come pre set @ 150ma and can adjust to 1 amp +\- 5%
The driver adjusts in a counter clockwise fashion "increase of current" as most people in a panic turn things "off" clockwise, you don't want to turn the current up in a panic because your laser is to hot or other issues that may arise as you tinker

18+PLEASE TAKE ALL CAUTION LASERS ARE NOT TOYS! Use at your own risk.
One stray beam could mean the last time you see.
Safety glasses are a must!
http://bit.ly/1aUJlXA

I recommend using it with a 445nm diode as that is what the diver is ment for and will not burn it out.
"I take no liability for burnt diodes"

All boards look as pictured excluding the stand offs
You will require a Arduino nano and 2 x A4988 stepsticks to complete the laser shield.
http://bit.ly/1aUJSJ2

http://bit.ly/1aUJYQZ

Micro stepping info
http://www.pololu.com/file/download...ping_driver_with_translator.pdf?file_id=0J450

Pinouts

NOTE:
Board needs a dedicated USB port as the relay is powered from the arduino

Here is my GRBL Hex file and a copy of X Loader
Im also working on a PDF of the PCB layout for any do it yourself folk
A list of all the parts needed are in the build log.

PCB Layout and program to modify if need

Sweet! thanks Robert

Limits!
So for the folks that would like to use hardware limits in grbl for homing you will need to disable the Z axis in the homing section of your config.h file.
Here is how you can do it
Look at the config.h file.
There are a couple of 'defines' that set up the homing cycle.
To get rid of the z-axis, comment out search cycle 1 and change the following.

#define HOMING_SEARCH_CYCLE_0 ((1<<X_AXIS)|(1<<Y_AXIS))
#define HOMING_LOCATE_CYCLE ((1<<X_AXIS)|(1<<Y_AXIS))

Compile and flash to your Nano

I hope this helps
For now I use software limits but will be updating to hardware and then will mod my hex as said above.
When I do, it will get uploaded to the files section of my build log.

A little walk through on setting up your board and it will be updated with info as questions arise.

Before you can use your LD2X you must setup your arduino nano with GRBL, see attached files in the Laser-V build
There will be a pre compiled hex that I created along with a copy of the source files for you to compile your own if need .
The only thing compiling is needed for is pin assignment and other core settings.
Changing parameters are all done through your console "grbl controller, gcode sender ex" by typing $$ and hitting enter.
There you will see a list of changeable settings.
"DO NOT HAVE NANO PLUGGED INTO LD2X WHILE UPLOADING HEX"

So on to uploading the hex
Plug in your arduino nano via USB and install the drivers, windows should have a driver on file for it and auto install them for you.

Next you need a copy of Xloader again in build files.
Open Xloader direct to where you saved your hex, select the com port your nano is connected to and hit upload.
It takes a little bit, then you will see that it has completed the upload and you should now be sporting your own GRBL nano.
Plug in your nano to the LD2X, open console, select port and then open.
A grbl message should pop up"grbl 0.8"
Type $$, hit enter, If a list of options pops up you installed things right.

A fast test of your laser driver contact can be performed by typing
M03 ENTER to turn it on
M05 ENTER to turn it off
"Should hear relay click"

When it comes to the stepsticks, simply pic your micro stepping setting using the jumper pins located in between the driver board sockets for each driver, then plug it in/set your current and your ready to rock.

Please refer to the above pic for connection pin outs as there is no silk screen on the PCB

Plug in your motors, wire your 12-14.5 vdc and your ready to play.
If you have wired your diode, put on them protective glasses before playing and adjust your driver to the correct current for your diode.

If you are following my advice and using this board with a 445nm diode your safe to adjust the current with out a dummy load as max current is 950ma and m140 can handle about 1.5 amps.

Test your motors by typing some simple commands in the console
" G1x10y10 ENTER"
If your motor driver current and step settings are right then you should have seen your motors turning

Setting your output volts for any other diode can be done by turning on the laser contact and putting a multi meter across the LD output.
Adjust the voltage trim pot to desired output.

Adjusting the current is done in the same manor but a dummy load must be applied, resulting volts translate to current.
Please see link for better understanding the laser driver side of things.
http://laserpointerforums.com/f42/diy-homemade-laser-diode-driver-26339.html

No problem
That is just awesome, great work
Looking cool in them safty glasses

I use a positive resist method for my PCB boards, but hope to be milling them soon
After exposing the boards with my UV unit I etch them in hydrogen poroxide and pool acid 2:1 ratio, etchs fast and lasts longer

A 5 amp 12vdc will do the trick
Taking a guess I'm going to say 3 amps

Your laser diode will only require 1 amp max for a long life of etching

@JCPhlux
Your diode housing and mounting plate are on the way, they said a week

Np can't wait to see what you come up with and your own touches

A good 4 - 5 inch of space is good as smoke hitting your lens will destroy it.
Be sure to incorporate a exhausting fan to whisk smoke away.

I'm so making 1

For the cost no, but how you would make it work with what I sent you I have no idea

Yes, that is what I do.
Play with scrap till I find the speed for the job, then make note of it

Yes that is due to the current and voltage disapation.
That is why I had to sink it