Ok thanks for the info I will do some digging

Yes! NEMA11 they are.
First number in the model number

Nice find thank you
I found some that have a holding torque of approx 1 lb, so I think they will do the trick

Nice, can't

Can't find your mailing address or my invoice to get it.
Please send me it asap and I will send out your board this afternoon
My e-mail is rmhcnc@gmail.com
Thanks

Sent Thank you

Got it off to the post now

Thank you!

Didn't you say you were building a project case for this bad boy?
Check out the resource Jon just posted!
http://www.openbuilds.com/resources/makercase.5/

Very cool!
I may just have to check that out

I seem to be having a problem editing the build
When I click on the edit, the hole body of the build is missing.
When I view it all seems fine

hmm I will check it out...

I am able to get into the edit mode from here.
I have however been working on the site in the back ground for a while today so maybe somthing was refreshing as you tried to get in. Can you try clearing your browser's cache and see if you can get it then.

I tried that with no luck, try adding a line of text to the end of the body and I will then try logging in again and edit it out.

I can see the line you added when viewing but still when I click the edit button and the editing box opens its blank
Anyway I will keep racking my brain as to what the issue could be while I tinker with Laser V Bot
Still waiting on parts "power supply" before I can finish up this build

Here is a pic of my personal updated/ completed board with heat sinks.
Bit of eye candy

Very nice!
Maybe you are being logged out? When you are trying to edit

I'm going to try something on my end if it wipes it clean I will have some work ahead of me lol
Keep ya in the loop

Ok thanks Robert

Ok I think I have things in order now
Had to reload all the text and images bit by bit but I think it's all there now

Hi Ben nice job on the laser layout! I would only change on thing and that is to lose the 90 corner connector that you have in the center of the side gantry's I think they are unnecessary. Other then that I think you have a winner there keeping it clean and simple. As for the drivers yes they will run nema 17's. They are the same drivers seen on a lot of the 3D printer designs around today and can handle about 2-2.5A
I removed the 90 corner in the pic

As for the rest of your questions I think Robert will have to join in he's the laser expert here I am learning all I can from him and can't wait to build one myself

Thanks so much for your interest and words
The laser diode I use is rated @1-2w depending on the driver circuit.
My design is based around them requirements. The LM317 T regulators are rated for 1.5 amps but with cooling and the T rating I have pushed them to 1.6-1.7 amps.
I choose to run my diode at 1 amp max to save on life span of the diode.
The diode you listed would blow through any of them materials but requires a special circuit for driving it "Pulsed diode" driver
Take a look at this setup and they are using a 1w laser in a ultra violet light spectrum "908nm" my driver will easily run it.


I have only cut 1/8 Balsa at 1w, it took 4 passes at slow mm/min settings.
As for the other materials you mention I have no experience with them.
My board will run a 1.5w diode with no problems as long as it's cooled well.

There are other ic chips that will run higher loads but really I would just take the leap into a laser tube at 40w and mirrors "big bucks"

If you like I can help you as much as possible and will be making my board available fully assembled and also arduino's pre programmed and stepsticks that will make it plug and play.
I am at the moment trying to cut the costs of making the boards without loss of quality to lower the price for fellow hobiest.
Right now it will cost $50 and shipping if it's outside of Canada for a plug and play setup that can run a diode reliably @ 1 amp load, 1.5 amps with cooling on both your laser diode and the driver board.
The arduino will be programmed and pins will be in place on both the drivers and arduino.
Board color options are
BLUE
RED
GREEN
PURPLE
GOLD "coming soon"
SILVER "coming soon"

In no way am I an expert, rather I am a hobiest that did a lot of reading on operating the 445nm and DVD burner lasers

BTW the end look of my design will look like the cutter you seen in the video minus the laser head changer lol

Ok kram when your board arrives the terminal strip connections are as follows



since you have a 1-2w diode on its way then you can crank up your current to max if ya feel the need.
right now its sitting at .130ma
Your voltage is set at 8.3vdc so no need to adjust

Also here is a link that will help explain a little more for you and others about how this LM317 circuit works
http://laserpointerforums.com/f42/diy-homemade-laser-diode-driver-26339.html

Thank you Robert this will be super helpful!

Should I be adding a JST plug on this diode for quick swap outs? How often with cooling would you think these would need changing out? Thanks

I don't see it being an issue but I myself simply solider leads direct to the LD and heat shrink.
As for life span I am still using the same diode from 2 years ago.
As anything if pushed to the max it's life span shortens and I have yet to kill 1, knock on wood lol

BTW your tracking number is
LM008904996CA
shipped Canada post

Let me know if it arrives safe and undamaged

That great news indeed!

Will do my friend
Thanks for the update and info

No problem, we got hit by a snow storm so it took a little longer to drop it at the post office, looking at 3 -4 days

Good deal thanks Robert I will be looking for it!

Its alive! Looks great Robert nice job, that red acrylic its really going to be a nice touch.
As for the fill I think you can use a cross hatch fill with a inkscape extension. I think this is the way they do the egg bot fill as well. It may work for the laser to.
This may help http://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/Creating_filled_regions
and this http://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/Hatch_fill