Hi Jestah, Thanks. I used a different circuit to that posted above but it is not dissimilar. I think that learning to program these R.I.S.C. chips can be regarded as 'where there is a will...' certainly with the 12f683 there are only 35 instructions that can be used and it does not take too long to get familiar with their use - in some ways it is just a great adventure. Yes, a programmer and associated drive software is necessary if you were planning on using the Microchip PIC devices but they are cheaply obtained on the bay (probably all made in China). Tweakie.
Tweakie that's great! (I really like the PIC devices, and especially the development/debugging tools from Microchip)
Thanks Bit53b. (I was fortunate enough to get all the associated Microchip software paid for, a few years back, when working on a ‘smart card’ access system so, for me at least, programming PIC chips is now relatively painless ). Tweakie.
Fortunately someone have already made some code to generate the PWM on the ATtiny85 for the arduino http://www.cunningturtle.com/attiny4585-servo-library/
Hi Robert, How will you vary the speed of the Stinger spindle without Mach3/PWM ? Does GRBL support this? (or did you mean spindle off/on?)
For now I would like to make things work in the following manor, one of my relays will control power to the ESC "M8/M9" when enabled an attiny will pulse and bring the spindle to start state, beep beep beep So if I can say have 3 buttons high,med,low that would work fine for me. Once spindle is ready pick speed and attiny spits out the correct ms signal. Now to get that all working is going to be the fun part I never really adjusted the speed much when I used my RC spindle it was more of a turn the pot to pre marked spots deal.
why not using an NE555 instead fof the attiny for this (and continuing to use the trimmer to regulate the speed)?? http://makezineblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/figb.png?w=620&h=452
Consistent set points instead of guessing and having to turn the dial, With my last 555 timer you had to turn it slow till the three beep sounded then you could start the spindle. This way I hope to set the power up ms to 1 and then have three increments up to 2ms. simply to have it automated I guess as there is no rpm read out. Also I have made a circuit that I hope wil be able to adapt to the Mach3 idea later down the road for my other mill Skinning the cat a different way
Here is the prototype Since the code I'm going to try and use is proven I went ahead and made it so if all works I don't need to build it again
Yes there are so many ways to do this, so many adventures Encoder, RPM display and constant surface speed is just around the corner! I checked the source code for GRBL. True, spindle speed, "S" is not supported now, but there is a comment in there that says it may come back if PWM issues can be sorted.
You've got the rail behind the spindle set too low. Ref: You could also gain a little more upward movement by shimming the mounts out to help the spindle clear the top plate.
Thanks Rick! I moved that to look more like the screenshot you posted and am back up to 2 inches travel. Not ideal, but I can work with it. I still do want one of these fancy spindles though, wish someone would kit it out
So this is what I have come up with so far. I have made a circuit that when the spindle on signal from the arduino nano goes high, the attiny 85 is powered on. I have flashed the tiny with a blink code for testing and when powered the code begins to run. I kind of understand the 8bit libary but can't get the hex loaded onto the tiny. From my understanding I have 2 pwm outputs and 3 anolog inputs I can play with. I have pwm 1 in the circuit as the output and want to generate a pwm at startup with each anolog pin when brought high producing a ms pulse for low, high and default. So to the point, can this be done using the 8bit hex or should I be looking at generating code to spit out the requested ms pulse at power up and logic highs? Sorry still learnin the programing side of things here lol
You have to write you own code using the library, you have to INCLUDE the library in the source code 1) follow this: http://arduino.cc/en/Guide/Libraries 2) after you can write your own sketch following the example
Parts are in so I gotta get this done lol Went with a different type of collet, ER11M instead of the reg ER11A Now where's the coffee pot?
Robert, is that the colette? Does it has 'flats' for a wrench? I think I have the 'A' model. What's the difference between the two?
It is 890kv as all my others, it's the sweet spot @12-14 vdc IMO RPM max no load will be around 10,000. This one is a little different as it's going on the Stinger PCB mill
I have just got word that NZ customs is going to let go of my last shipment from openbuilds so I think this weekend is going to be grand!!! Thanks for the advce before regarding the PSU for the esc but I am still a little unsure what current the ESC to spindle cable is going to have to withstand. I am assuming looking at the ESC and motor cables being THICK and the ESC being rated at 100A (really?!?!?!) but what would be a safe conductor size for a run no more than 2-2.5m ?
I use 16 awg as your not going to pull more then 10 amps. A 12 foot shielded power supply plug works well
I had a 100A ESC so I used it and it doesn't even get warm. I used #10 AWG wires, which are 4mm. I'm sure the wires and ESC are overkill but not by much and I had that so I didn't have to buy.