I just built my big ox, trying to run my first gcode, looks good in air printing. I am trying to find a calibration file to use. I have a tinyg controller and am just using foam (so I don't screw it up too bad). Any suggestions? I'm also interested in Grandpaw B's issue as I have Cut-2d & 3d as well as photo-v-carve and don't know what post processor to use with my system. I am trying to get good enough to run a couple photos for my brother in the next 2 weeks before I visit.

Robb - Go to here for a calibration item:
http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Calibration_and_Squaring_the_Machine

I have a ShapeOko 1 and it is not very different than the Ox. Just that the Ox is bigger. They have the same problems that you are
asking about and are just a little ahead of the Ox group in development.

Bob

Thanks Bob, I was running that file and see that the cheap foam insulation board isn't always level. I May tramm my bed to address that, but we will see. It's only been one evening.

Hers's what I found out:
Mach 2/3 Arcs, is what you would use for normal cutting jobs.
Mach 2/3 ATC Arcs, is for when your machine utilizes an Automatic Tool Changer. (ATC)
Mach 2/3 wrapx2a, is for rotary work where you are wrapping the X axis around your A axis.
This is dependant on how your rotary axis is set up. You may need to use Mach 2/3 wrapy2a instead.

My 1500x1000 ox is starting to take shape. The main structure is put together. After moving the gantry around a bit, I founds its pretty easy for the gantry to start 'wiggling/racking' back and forth when moving the gantry back and forth quickly. This has me slightly concerned at the moment, but I imagine that's why a dual y motor setup is recommended.

I just finished getting my first aluminum piece cut and I thought I would share some of my equipment and settings, trial and many errors later. Most of the early on problems I had were related to getting aluminum gummed in the mill. Slower RPM and faster feed rate helped. I cannot overstate how much a shop vac or compressed air to blow away chips helps. Attached photo shows the success and failures.



I'm using a Bosch Colt Router spindle: speed 1 (minimum)
PreciseBits collet kit for Colt Router, for 1/8" bit (PB-BOPG-COLT-84KIT)
End mill: 1/8" 3 Flute carbide ZrN coated (Maritool)

CAD/CAM: Autocad Fusion/CAM 360
Cut depth per pass: 0.5mm
Feedrate: 500mm/min
BTW, I accidentally used this high feed rate. Originally I was going much slower, but faster seems to work better.

Grbl Shield v5/Arduino UNO
Grbl 0.9 - https://github.com/grbl/grbl/tree/dev

Spoiler: Click for Grbl 0.9 Settings

$0=26.670 (x, step/mm)
$1=26.670 (y, step/mm)
$2=50.000 (z, step/mm)
$3=500.000 (x max rate, mm/min)
$4=500.000 (y max rate, mm/min)
$5=500.000 (z max rate, mm/min)
$6=10.000 (x accel, mm/sec^2)
$7=10.000 (y accel, mm/sec^2)
$8=10.000 (z accel, mm/sec^2)
$9=200.000 (x max travel, mm)
$10=200.000 (y max travel, mm)
$11=80.000 (z max travel, mm)
$12=10 (step pulse, usec)
$13=0 (step port invert mask:00000000)
$14=0 (dir port invert mask:00000000)
$15=25 (step idle delay, msec)
$16=0.020 (junction deviation, mm)
$17=0.002 (arc tolerance, mm)
$18=3 (n-decimals, int)
$19=0 (report inches, bool)
$20=1 (auto start, bool)
$21=0 (invert step enable, bool)
$22=0 (invert limit pins, bool)
$23=0 (soft limits, bool)
$24=0 (hard limits, bool)
$25=0 (homing cycle, bool)
$26=224 (homing dir invert mask:11100000)
$27=25.000 (homing feed, mm/min)
$28=500.000 (homing seek, mm/min)
$29=250 (homing debounce, msec)
$30=1.000 (homing pull-off, mm)

I do not have access to a CNC to cut the parts. does anyone have any good ideas? Can I buy them? pay someone to cut them for me?

You can buy the OX Plates from EBAY

Does anyone have a drawing of a mount for the Bosch colt router that doesn't use hose clamps? Heck as long as I am wishing, how about one with a dust collection fitting.

I went with the hose clamp version, but a quick search resulted in these:
https://www.inventables.com/technologies/bosch-colt-spindle-mount
"It has a place to mount an adjustable dust skirt"

http://k2cnc.3dcartstores.com/Bosch-Colt-Router-Mount_p_11.html

You could get ideas from them if you wish to make your own.

Well, here's what I designed in VCarve Pro and here's what I'm getting on wood I'm getting gaps and overlaps. I've tried different post processors, I've checked to make sure the machine isn't sticking or hanging up. Still poor results. And I noticed it carves deeper on one side of the sign than the other. Any ideas out there?

maybe your running the machine faster than it can cut?
Its skipping on the right side, so something is getting stuck when it gets there. Is there sufficient room for the machine to move on the right?

What tool are you using? Your GR is thinner than your PAW

Thats it, were gonna figure this out,
Send me the vectric file, let me open it and look at it, maybe something there will give me an idea, because its either the program or the machine.

Lets start eliminating this one at a time, send me the file and ill test it on my machine and see if I get any issues.

Can you give me the actual aspire vcarve file. I want to see how it plays out there and create a gcode from that file myself.
Please and thanks

Also that image, does not look like it was done with a vbit. What wood are you using?

I re checked that the machine has plenty of free movement. It does. However, I did notice I lost both of the set screws for the X axis pulley. Luckily, I had extras and replaced them. Maybe that was the problem. I'll try cutting a new sign tomorrow.

Sounds like you might have taken "the spanner out of the works" there.
Play on an old colloquial English saying.

Gray

Sorry, I'm not sure I understand what your asking for. I thought I did send you the actual VCarve file.

????

If it goes wrong or you mess it up, "You've dropped a spanner in the works". ie. Jammed it or broke it!
That replaces all the equivalent bad words. LOL.

Gray

in vcarve, instead of exporting out the gcode, save the file instead. File > Save method.
It may have been your set screw that was missing.
I had this problem before, too, where everything was going great, but at one part it always messed up, I saw that the set screw holding the gear to the motor was gone and it was slipping at that spot, put in a new set screw and the problem went away.

Because seeing that slippage on the right side, looked like it was skipping somewhere.

On to something else.
I opened up both files

And there was something odd happening. It wasnt matching up.

which file did you actually use in Mach? Grandpaws Sign or V-Carve 1-tp?

Thank you. That took care of one of my problems.

Problems solved. Table (spoil board) was not level and I was missing both set screws from the X axis pulley. I re cut the sign and it came out much better. But wow, all the dust!

Breath shallow my friend, breath shallow.

Gray

Just ordered a 1/4" to 1/8" reduction bushing. Now I can use my Dremel bits in my Porter Cable trim router. If anyone else is looking for one, I found it here. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NI6KO8/ref=pe_385040_30332200_TE_item

Has anyone built a hood or enclosure for their OX? I'm playing with the idea.