Did anyone here use the Nema 23 motors? If so, did you have to drill any new holes in the OX Gantry plates?
If there are new holes, I'd like the dimensions so I can add them to the plates I am making and listing on Ebay.
Thanks,
Chris
chrisclub@gmail.com

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261475896332?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

Your plates worked like a charm with the NEMA 23s I got from StepperOnline (lots of choices, China).

I'm using a 20x60 instead of the 20x40 for the third X axis back piece (don't ask). So the opening for the cables lines up with the inner chanel of v-slot which could allow one to completely hide some wiring (would need to drill a nice hole in v-slot to poke wiring directly into controller box), but it leaves little space to pass wiring through and top of V-rail. You might want to make the opening a bit taller ?

Is there room for doing a triple span X-axis beam ? Would need extra holes there.

As anyone thought of trying an H beam type configuration for the X-axis ? 20x40 sideways between the 20x60 (or taller for wide spans). The horizontal "spanner" could be fixed to the "beams" with corners (whether 2 or 3 hole brackets or corner like those used at gantry plates every 10" or so, top/bottom). Extra width would be to give a wider base for X-axis wheels which should limit the front/back flex in the Z-axis assembly (maybe ?). There would not be a need for the back X v-slot ...

How about a triple 20x40 sideways or double 20x60 for the Z-axis itself (instead of a single 20x60) ? It's tad thicker but might limit flex in the Z-axis as tool pushes in work piece ... The plates of Z-axis would need to be redesigned. A single design for all three options should be possible, at least for top plate; bottom plate might need two design (standard and "hefty") not to get in way of router/spindle ...

Just thoughts as I look at my OX ... Still waiting for time to install electronics ...

Thanks for the info Serge.
Hope the electronics installation goes well.
Chris

Hey guys, I just wanted to share my interpretation of the OX https://plus.google.com/113540974329909454794/posts/fuzVktMAuhf
It is fully functional but I smashed the USB connector of the TinyG and I am waiting for a replacement ... after that I might actually be able to use it

Hi, I'm new here. I bought a OX CNC router kit, after being assured it was easy to build (I'm a crafter, not a builder) & after going through the contents of the box & the instructions forwarded, now I'm concerned Ive made a big mistake & Im out of my depth! although I'm quite a practical person. I wondered if anyone could offer any advice for the best place to start for someone so new to this?

Thank you I just started watching them

Everything is ordered, just waiting for boxes to arrive. Thank you @Chris Laidlaw for stepping up and making parts.

@kram242 , I'm really looking forward to starting on this project. I sincerely appreciate your hard work and contribution to this community! CNC has been an interest for awhile, nice to finally work on a project.

Reading all about controls, software etc. while waiting for parts. Setup an old pc with linuxcnc today. Probably give that a try and also trial of Mach3. Looks like the new version of Mach is right around the corner so will probably wait for that.

Working on this build and am about to start building the frame. I bought limit switches, but am not sure exactly where to put them, when to add them to the build, and how to wire them. Has anyone built the OX with limit switches?

I'm part of the build group with Jeff Balderson (see p.28) and I'm supposed to tell him how to do the limit switches when I figure it out. That's why I'm turning to you guys! lol! Can anyone help?

So far the build is going great!

I will take photos of my limits later today when I get home from work....

For now just a little bit of a teaser .... I did my best to cut the Vslot square with my drop saw but in the end found a bit to much induced stress in the frame when squaring so went all out and milled the critical ends of the vslot. All sticks that needed to be the same length were bolted together and milled as a pair as well. So far it is MUCH closer to being true, not perfect but very close. I am hoping to use duel switches on my slaved axis to resquare the gantry to bang on.

My Nema 23's from cncrouters worked fine

Bmoz,

I'm the one that asked Chris the question about using NEMA 23's. His response to me was 'I think they may be too heavy' and might slow the speed of the axis travel. What size 23's are you using for the X / Y axis and are you using same for the Z? What are you using for a spindle motor on your build?

I found some 130 0z-in NEMA 17's that I may consider instead of 287 oz-in NEMA 23's. Your opinion and experience would be of value in my decision making process.

Rob

I have only been running them for a few days. I haven't done any heavy work with them yet and can't really venture an opinion on how it will go long term. Having said that my OX is all aluminum and is feels steady as a rock with the 23's on the x and y axis. For the z axis I am running a Nema 17 for no other reason than I didn't want to have to re-engineer the plates.

I thought 23's on the x and y were the stock size? I'm running 270 oz/in on the x any y and it zips around just fine at 48v.

That is my understanding, Serge used Nema 23's on the X and Y with my plates and everything works fine.
chrisclub@gmail.com

And using a NEMA 17 for the Z-axis. I'll have specs and such in the build details of "myOX" ... probably during the train ride Monday.

Just how long is your train ride, and have you got WiFi as well?

Gray

I'm relatively new to motion control and have some math questions.

It seems to me that when the 20 tooth, GT2 pulley rotates exactly 360 degrees, the GT2 belt moves exactly 20 teeth. That means the "effective" circumference of the GT2 pulley is 40mm. I assume the belt stretches with use, so the the distance between teeth will be slightly more than 2mm and the belt moves slightly more than 40mm...but for now, I'm neglecting belt stretch.

Taking it a little further, the basic step size is 0.2mm (40mm/200steps) or 0.0079". Using divide-by-8 micro-steps, yields a 0.025mm (0.00098") per micro-step size.

Are my assumptions correct?

Chaz

I just got the same parts for another build; I've hard-coded in 40mm/0.2mm for the pulley, yeah. I don't use microsteps yet so I can't say for sure, but math-wise, presumably 1/8th steps would indeed be 0.025mm.

Mark or someone with older belt may want to jump in here, but I'm assuming the fibreglass interior prevents stretching. Though perhaps that's only achievable with a continuous steel cable, so the belt may stretch a little over time as the strands settle.

I'd actually be interested to know the answer to that myself, since it may be a factor in my current build too.

It's not the first time I read in this forum that people are trying to calculate the steps, or what ever, for a machine taking the diameter of the pully and the number of teeth into calculation. I must have totally missed understanding the importance of this step when I set up my machine. Must be the luck of the dumb that I got my machine to run so good without this crucial step. LOL

@JustinTime, LoL not sure if serious.
For everyone else, here is a link to the awesome calculators by Josef Prusa. These should solve most of your steps per millimeter problems. Even if you were sleeping in Math class.
http://calculator.josefprusa.cz/

If you use Mach3, you don't have to do the calculations as you can calibrate your axis by measuring the actual movement.

Thanks. Josef Prusa's calculator verified what was running around in my head. I new it had been done about a million times before...and I now know what a micron is.

I have a 12" (300mm) electronic ruler that I will use to measure the actual travel.



I also have the serial port cable that connects to the ruler, so I can make lots and lots of automated measurements...eventually.

Chaz

Hello all!

I'm new to the forums but not new to the site... if that makes sense! This question doesn't have anything to do with the current discussion, so I apologize for butting in, but I have a bit of a quandary.

I'm planning on starting my OX Build here very soon, but can't figure out a way to CNC the plates. You see, I have an Oliver Intellicarve 13x18 CNC machine, but I cannot figure out an accurate way to mill the plates. For those of you that don't know, it uses a program called ipicture to generate gcode. You upload a photo, set the size parameters and save the gcode to a USB...plug it into the machine, set the origin and hit start. Not much control over any project settings really... (hence why I'm planning on building a machine!) I could save a jpg of the plates and attempt to load it in this way, but I'm afraid that if I don't get the LxW of the jpg set correctly (because you have to factor the white borders of the jpg) the end result won't be correct! Anyone have any suggestions?

Thank-you in advance!

Adam

Threaded Rod Plate for Nema 23 for Z axis.
I am working with a builder on this plate.
As soon as he tests it out, I'll offer it on Ebay where my Ox CNC Gantry plates are listed, or direct thru chrisclub@gmail.com.

It should be tested by early next week.
Chris