A hood is good for sound dampening but for dust best use a dust shoe.

Should have refreshed before posting and I would have seen that Mark already recommended a dust shoe.

My Ox is built and ready to calibrate, I'm running LinuxCnc and am looking for the values I need to enter in the Stepper setup. I'm using the GT3 Pulleys (20) and belt. I'm sure there is an easy way to do the math to get my "rev / in" to enter in the leadscrew value, if there is can someone post it. I'm getting close by trial and error but would really like to see the math.

I worked it by using the below method

motor steps x drive micro stepping/pitch of the belt x # of pulley teeth

200*10/2*20=33.33 Steps per in mach3

Does this mean that the above system has a resolution of 0.03mm?

My OX first run!



There is another link for it too:
http://s597.photobucket.com/user/dddman_69/media/20140612_2312251_zpsd3073052.mp4.html

Your video doesn't show up

I've added a photobucket link too. Maybe Facebook videos are blocked from where you are?

I have a feeling they are blocked from anyone who is not logged into your facebook account.

I have a steel cabinet that I am considering mounting the OX to. I am hoping to add rigidity. Does anyone have any experience with mounting the OX to a table? How did it work out?

I found this calculator under resources for the OX. Perhaps you could use it to check your math. http://www.openbuilds.com/resources/joseph-prusas-reprap-calculators.3/

So, I decided I was going to use the 1500mm beams for the X and Y so I would have about 4ft x 4ft cuttable area. After assembling it and looking at it for a few days I'm starting to rethink that. Ultimately I want a machine that can do full sheet material (4x8) but I'm thinking the OX might be better in the smaller size.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

2(Pi)(Radius to center of belt) = movement for 1 rotation.
Previously discussed here: http://www.openbuilds.com/threads/precise-rail-movement-on-ox.519/

I was able to get to this point myself, the real question is how do you get to the rev/in that LinuxCnc needs, not steps per revolution. I could measure it by moving the axis 1" and measuring the degrees that the pulley turns and do the math but I don't have an accurate way to measure the degree of rotation.

Try dividing 1" by the calculated mean circumference. Pretty sure that will give you rev/inch

I believe the PD for the pulley is 0.7517", so the circumference is 2.361"

Rev/inch = 0.423

I'm going for the full 1500 mm X axis but half in Y with the same hopes of potentially working 4' x however long I can get a table to hold and slide the work piece through. Of course, we both then have to figure out how to line up our work piece between 2 or, in your case, 4 feet sections not to introduce visible alignment problems.

I've got the frame ("part I") just about done, if not for a handfull of missing t-nuts. The two pieces of v-slot to hold the work surface/table are currently on shelf. In looking at the frame, and planning to eventually open at least the center of the work area for "deeper" work pieces, I'll order an extra length or two of v-slot while ordering the t-nuts and start preparing for what will be the well for a "manual" forth axis of some kind ...

It might drone or amplify sounds, depending on the thickness of the sheetmetal.

Yuck....I didn't think of that Rubber leveling feet it is

You might consider adding a plywood top to the cabenet. I have my lathe mounted on an old sheet metal office desk with 3 sheets of plywood for the top. Before I added the plywood, it was considerably louder and less ridgid, with the majority of the noise comming from the desk itself. Then again, my lathe dosent come close to the higher pitched spindle speeds of a router. Your mileage may vary.

I'm just getting started and gathering up parts. Neither of the stepper motors or the control are available from the store or the supplied links. I was looking at this combo available on e-bay.

http://goo.gl/4AWKDF

Any help or point me in another direction is appreciated.

Have you checked out CNC4You?
http://www.cnc4you.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=20
I'm not sure about the availability, but they carry a great range.

Cheers
Gray

There are no specs, that saw, for the driver board but it looks to me like the TB6560 (I think that that's what it's called) chip board. There are issues with this board and I will not recommend using it.

Thanks everyone for all the great info. I ordered all the available parts via the part store yesterday. I'll continue to pick up items as they become available. If the steppers become available here before I gather everything else up, I'd rather just buy them here. I've seen a couple people order the 400w spindles off e-bay rather than using one of the router options. What are the advantages / disadvantages of the spindle rather than router? Looking forward to getting started on this project!

An Ox is in my future. I just purchased a Makita TP0701C Compact Router (on sale for $89 at Home Depot). The motor body is a 65mm diameter, 85mm tall cylinder. I want to use the "hose clamp" mounting technique until I can cut my own motor mounts. I had an idea for an mounting aid that fits over the cast 90 degree corner brackets. The first prototype is being printed at Shapeways and should be here is a couple of weeks. You can go here to look at the design. http://www.shapeways.com/model/2067340/makita-mounting-aid.html?li=shop-results&materialId=95

Chaz

And as soon as I posted the last message...the link broke. http://www.shapeways.com/model/2069388/makita-mounting-aid.html?li=shop-results&materialId=95

I forgot to explain why it's an aid. This piece holds the router parallel and centered on the Z-axis V-slot extrusion...while you are tightening the hose clamp. Since it's a permanent addition, it also adds some stability.

No problem. As soon as I get a couple in my hands. It would help if I had dimensions for the 2060 extrusion and the cast 90 degree corner bracket. I'm starting with the Sketchup drawings and hoping nothing has changed since they were created.