I did exactly that on my PhlatPrinter 3 as you can see here http://www.phlatforum.com/xenforo/threads/yorams-mods.2389/ And here http://www.phlatforum.com/xenforo/threads/led-ring.3129/ you can see the latest modification to it (in the second and third to last pics). I run the motor on 14.5v. When I had it on higher it was getting hot. While I don't cut aluminum on the PhlatPrinter, can't use water cooling, I'm sure I could even at this lower voltage. It may take two or three more passes, that's all. It had cost me less than $100.
Can you post some specific links to the lead screw nut you used? I see a ton of them on the site you mentioned previously.
Hmm it will not let me send you the exact link but you click on the buy button like pictured below and then enter the length you want and hit update. This is a hi lead screw, you could also use a standard acme as well, would just be a little slower on the Z axis which is really not a big deal on a router usually there is no reason to rush a cut job. This is the one I used for my test machine and the one I used to tap the 3D printed nut block. You may also want to get a little extra length to cut off so you can use it as a makeshift tap in your drill. Without looking I believe that you need approx. 8" on the ROUTY Z axis so you may want to get 12" since its sold by the foot anyway and it will give you that little extra to work with and use as a tap as well Hope this helps http://www.roton.com/Mating_Components.aspx?partnumber=60762&#PN
Heya everyone! I used this in my build: http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOW-COST-CN...746?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item257a8c7e92 It works amazing..... Hope this helps!
@brianblocker All the nuts on that page match this screw. The nut block on the Routy is in production not ETA yet but will have them in the store when they are done. In the mean time you can download the 3D STL model and thread it/tap it with a drill and the ACME rod. That's how mine was done. You could also get one of the nuts shown on that page and try to fab a way to mount it to the plate as well. @Protodrake thats a cool looking design and if the holes have 20mm spacing (standard V-Slot building system) it may fit. (EDIT: Actually to thick at 16mm. Need 12mm-13mm max) So it will not fit with out spacing the plate out more. Is this an open source design? Thanks for the share
Ahhhh I see. That makes sense. I may end up trying to go w/ a belt drive for the z-axis then if I can't figure something out there, but cool! I may also try and rig up something from Home Depot, I can get some allthread there. Appreciate it!
More then welcome, glad to help I think this is the best way, you will find things you want to change along the way as well. Once you get it complete you will want to rebuild with the new additions built in as well as a few more that you come up with after running it a while. Thats how it happens with me anyway
@kram242 Hey, i posted the wrong link! Here is the correct one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/MINIATURE-2...401?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2333ae39a9 This is a 20mm center to center mounting hole with a M6 rod, with a profile of 12mm thick. And unfortunately, as far as i can see not open source.
Thanks for the updated link. We actually have upgraded to the 8mm rod as the 6mm seems a little too flexible for our taste. On a short Z run its not a big deal but if your using these for the Y or X axis run you will get rod whipping from the rotational forces pulling the rod out like a jump rope. We have not tested the 8mm on the Z yet but we are working towards this goal after having tested the 6mm. The 6mm does work fine on the Z though. I think this is based on an open source design i have seen it somewhere before. We'll have to keep looking, it may be on thingiverse
I'm struggling to find bearings that are 8mm inside and still fit on the threaded rod plate in the UK. Any ideas from anyone?
Check out 688ZZ Bearings... I believe they will work. Check ebay if you cant find them locally, although any RC hobbie store should have them.
Here is a link to 8MM bearings (8 x 16 x 5). http://www.vxb.com/search-by-bearing-dimensions.html Check out the site. http://www.vxb.com
These should work @Frank G Haymes thanks for the link! At this time the part store only has the bearings we are using for the 6mm acme but will have the 8mm as well.
Thanks all. Those look good. Need to work out my spacings as I have a spindle mount with irregular holes that I need to work around too.
Here ya go dude just an idea of how it ran Z Axis motor plate didn't line up so I made a wood 1 then milled a replacement When milling I did 1/32 depth steps in HDPE and in aluminum I did 1/64 and used cooking oil as my lube
Decided to check the condition of my 890KV outrunner before ordering a new one and happy I did. As I suspected bearing failure was the issue and the fact it was pushing 24vdc didn't help "21,000RPM" Live and learn lol I will pop into my local big boy toys and pick up replacements then build it as per the picture I posted I will post a build log in the other builds section of the forum
I too had thought 24V is a good idea and found out I was wrong. My motor was HOT and I didn't need the high rpm at all. Going to 14.5V I still don't run at full rpm, especially cutting foam. It just melts the foam and makes a mess. I cut at a very low rpm so high voltage is not needed. Wood I cut at higher rpm, depends on the bit diameter but still not at full rpm so, again, high voltage is not needed. I didn't try to cut aluminum, the PhlatPrinter is made out of MDF, but I'm sure high rpm is not desired there either.
Yes in aluminum the best RPM and feed was 10,000 at 10-15 ipm. In wood ipm was all that changed to 30 and in foam I have no idea
Hey All, New store in canada for OpenBuild parts! We have kits of the Routy avaialble for preorder. Made as a basic kit or complete with router and electronics! Grand Opening Febuary 1st! Check it out! www.protodrake.ca
Hey Canada! Getting OpenBuilds parts faster just got a little easier thanks to Protodrake Congrats on your new store! @Protodrake
Hi all. Two questions. -How long does it usually take to process and ship orders within the US? -Does this machine do fine routing hardwoods? (probably a stupid question )
Cuse, I'm speaking from a bit of inexperience here as I'm in the "almost ready to start assembly" stage of the game but I'll answer anyway. I've been receiving my orders from the OpenBuilds part store about a week after ordering. As far as routing hard woods, it should do fine as long as you adjust the pass depth to account for changes in density (maple is going to take more passes than oak in all likelyhood.)
What is the usable cutting area of the Routy? I may have missed this as I scanned all of the comments. I'm looking to make this my first CNC router but before taking the plunge need to know if the size as designed will be large enough or if I need to try and scale it up a touch. Any help is greatly appreciated.