i dont understand.

the play is back and forth though(like side on for the wheels) which eccentrics are you talking about. i have followed the build pics pretty exact.
im thinking the eccentrics dont adjust quite far in enough, allowing a little space inside the rail, so when its twisted, the lip of the wheel moves(talking tiny amounts here, but the drill can flex because of it)
thank you, and hope im not asking too many questions

got er.. well i think i did.
things got MUCH better when i tightened the belt. unsure if the belt is meant to assist in this maner though....
thank you robert. took some spacers out(only had 2 eccentrics in) and got a lil play out. even the stuff i didnt use will be kept for later an it helped me having someone right here helping as i went
cheers
mevo

ok well that lasted
i now have a few mil(1 or 2) "play" on my x axis.
it wobbles
like left to right can wobble bout a mil or 2(making the bit able to flex more like a cm or so)
any thoughts/fixes?
or do i need more parts
cheers
mevo

Well I finally got going on my Routy build and things are going together well. Impressed with the parts and the fit and finish. The place I feel there is a little room for improvement is in the parts lists and instructions. If I have time I may try to amend the one that is listed with any missing parts. Also with the way my brain works it would be easier to break things down to sub assembles. Robo cuter from the UK has some nice diagrams that helped. Just to let everyone know I am a new Open build parts distributor in New York State just got going and have a limited supply of V-rail. www.opensourceluthiersupply.com

yeah the robocutters page really helped me understand the build so much. renders of the parts in stages and different angles
and the guys there are really good for any help or questions you haveo
cheers
mev

Just thinking about how I will wire up my own emergency stop.... if I choose to cut power to the drivers, could I damage them, or the motors?
Don't get me wrong - I know that emergency means just that - no graceful shutdown, and I would rather have damaged motors than damaged limbs - I'm just thinking about how expensive testing might be

If you have limbs even close to being in harms way when the machine is running, you are doing something wrong.

Thanks Tweakie, that helps - much appreciated.

Hi, I am just getting started and read through this thread once. Some things sure did not register.
For once, is the BOM currently close to reality? I think it does not jive with the sketchup drawing at all,
but I am a sketchup newbie...

Should the wheels not all be solid? The hollow v does not make sense to me, since I don't see them support
the belt so well. What are the advantages of the hollow v?

The BOM seems to list too few linear rails, and the wrong type? I already ordered according to the BOM,
but think that I did order wrong stuff, and not enough of what is really used.

The long dimension calls for a 1500mm length extrusion cut into two 750mm pieces. What kind of saw blade
are you using? Or are the pieces 1500mm+ to make this possible? Or is it 748mm and nobody really cares?

Luckily I am not in a great hurry, but I hate wasting money on shipping.

Thanks to everybody here for their contribution which finally convinced me that it was time to get my feet wet.
Without it I would have waited (wasted) another year or two...

Hi Tweakie:

(Just as an example, my machine and it's associated equipment is powered through a mains contactor - my emergency stop trips the contactor.)
Do you mean you kill all the power to the whole thing? Any chance you could supply an idiots guide to this wiring? I'm reasonably sure I could work it out, but I'd like to be sure.

Many Thanks
Gray

Thanks Tweakie. Reasonably described. I think I understood, and I'll know where to look when I need it. I'll remind you when you've got the time for the Idiots Drawing. Absolutely no rush, it's a long way off.
Cheers
Gray

Hi @remco I recently, within past 6 months, built a machine from what was then listed on the BOM (I don't think it has been changed) and I was missing some significant pieces. Just curious, did you buy any 20x40mm pieces of open v rail? I hope so, the machine does in fact call for it. Don't fret if you did not. I was able to build a routy variant without the 20x40mm and instead used 20x60mm in its place. Doing this changes a lot of things most notably the Y/Z axis. So your machine will not be what is drawn there in sketchup if you decide to go the 20x60mm route like I did. There will be quite some trips to the hardware store though but it is a good deal of fun. I've learned quite a bit as a result of building the machine not quite to what is in the plans.

I thought I was getting off cheap by not buying the 20x40mm but it did end up costing me more money by not buying it. Just a FYI.

Good luck and look forward to seeing the machine you create.

Hi Ceiling Cat,

There should be two 1500mm long extrusions. One 20x60 that becomes the two 750mm pieces the gantry runs on and one 20x40 that becomes the two ~710mm pieces that connect the front and back 400mm wide 20x80 pieces under the table. I think 20x60 instead of the 20x40 or even 20x80 would work here. I will use whatever I can get locally.

There are some 40/45mm M5 screws missing from the bom, and who knows what else... BTW the 1500mm 20x60 was actually 1505mm. Even with the kerf of my saw I can have two 750mm pieces

For the missing parts, I started a list of stuff that I found. Keep in mind I was focused mainly on the build instead of keeping a missing parts list but here are the things that I found. (Hopefully this will post well)

QtyPart NamePart LinkComment Cost
2V-Slot 20 x 40mm - 1500mhttp://openbuildspartstore.com/v-slot-20-x-40mm/2 x 200mm, 1 x 452mm, 1 x 170mm, 1 x 88mm, 2 x 710mm$15.5
1V-Slot 20 x 60mm - 1500mhttp://openbuildspartstore.com/v-slot-20-x-60mm/2 x 750mm sections, 1 x 412mm$23
2R4-ZZ Ball Bearing - 5/8" x 1/4" x .196"http://openbuildspartstore.com/r4-zz-ball-bearing-5-8-x-1-4-x-196/ $2
8M5 cap Head Screws - 40mmNA
52 Hole Joining Strip Platehttp://openbuildspartstore.com/2-hole-joining-strip-plate/5 @ $1.95, 2 are used as spacers behind Z motor$9.75
5Tee Nuts (25pack)http://openbuildspartstore.com/tee-nuts-25-pack/3 packs required @ 4.50$13.5
124V Power supply rated for Minimum 10 Ampshttp://openbuildspartstore.com/24v-20a-power-supply/ $50
2Lock Collar (1/4")http://openbuildspartstore.com/lock-collar-1-4/ $1.8
3Double Tee Nuthttp://openbuildspartstore.com/double-tee-nut/ $2.55
2Precision Shim - 10x5x1mmhttp://openbuildspartstore.com/precision-shim-10x5x1mm/2 @ $0.25$0.5
1Threaded block for lead screw that attaches to extrustion??????1 @ ????????

Some things worth mentioning. Start thinking about what your going to use for a power supply. I would recommend 24V that can deliver at least 10 Amps. In the list above at the time I was putting together my machine the parts store did not have the ball bearings for the Z axis or the M8 lead screw and screw blocks. It was a source of frustration for me that you shouldn't have to deal with anymore

That seemed to be the case with my extrusion too. I was glad it was a bit longer to allow for the width of the saw blade. Just a tip for cutting it, make sure you don't use a chop saw blade.

hey
i have another question(groan)
how solid should i be expecting this thing to be. have been having problems cutting plywood
feed @ 900mm/min
toolspeed have varied from around 12000rpm - 25000rpm(which burned up the wood a little)
1.8mm endmill
problem is on some moves for flattening the wood my tool seems to be forced over to the side, then the next line will be ok, leaving a line around a tool width wide in the middle. in material the tool feels solid, in air, the tiniest movement can be pushed/rocked.
do i want more amps to the steppers or am i suffering from a wobbly axis somewere.
can provide pics
any help is very much appreciated
cheers
mevo

Mevo,

I am currently doing my theory homework. What I got away with was that apparently there is a window for the parameters of tool diameter, number of flutes, spindle speed, feed rate and work material. If you are not hitting this window you are going to be frustrated by tool breakage, machine wear, bad work finish and bad breath.

There are calculators on the web for these things. I have been disabused of the notion that one can wing it, go by gut, or trial and error.

I don't know about your machine, but if you are not sure that your parameters for the given task are correct, there is no need to look any further.

Cheers,
Remco

Too late! After a lot of cleaning up I was back to my trusty table saw with the "many teeth". What a difference. I wish I had payed better attention...
To be sure: My table saw set up for hard marine plywood cut he extrusion like butter and with minimal cleanup. No fatal mistake, just some wasted time.

Hi guys, hopefully someone out there has some experience that could help me out. I purchased and 1/8th in. upcut spiral end mill for my machine for cutting acrylic. A really nice end mill to be sure. I have tried other bits for cutting various things: plywood, acrylic, MDF, etc. The best end mill I have found for anything so far has been this single flute upcut O. I love it. Well I stuck some acrylic under my machine tonight and it didn't yield the beautiful cuts I am used too anymore. The end mill isn't near as shiny as it used to be and the acrylic was melting. Molten plastic started orbiting the bit once again.

Has the end mill "BIT" the dust (Phun intended)? Anything I can do to maybe recondition it? It still feels really really sharp, but maybe I need to sharpen it somehow? The bit was rather expensive and I'm afraid that I should only cut acrylic with this thing from now on because I'm wondering if the other materials may have ruined it somehow. But they were all softer materials than acrylic so it shouldn't be a problem should it?

If the dull finish is a thin buildup of glue from the mdf, you should be able to clean that off. Glue would definitely be causing excess friction. If solvent won't cut it, something like Simple Green might work. Buff it "lightly" with a felt pad on a Dremel, following the angle of the cutting edge.

Try using a bit made specifically for plastic like the Onsrud 61-000 series.

http://www.zoro.com/g/00075687/k-G1...hopping_Feed&gclid=CO6Hv5Slib8CFQWTfgodp1sAbg

Important: Do not cut into wood (including spoil board) with this bit. If cutting on top of wooden board, place a thin 1/8" piece of polystyrene or abs etc, so that when you cut through the plastic, your cut finishes in plastic. This will retain the fine cutting qualities of the bit. For acrylic see the 56-000 0r 66-000 series . They're all high quality bits for plastic cutting.