What is everybody using as their driver board and drivers? More of a recap on whats been working great.
Ive been using an arduino CNC Sheild from protoneer http://www.protodrake.ca/arduino-cnc-shield/
With Pololu DRV 888825 drivers http://www.protodrake.ca/stepstick-drv8825-stepper-motor-driver-pololu/
So far great success. what about everyone else?

I have the same as you, but haven't busted out the soldering iron yet (got an unassembled board). Good to know it works fine.

Think my frame is finished. I might need to do a better job with the z-axis leadscrew, but i'll see how it goes. My driver board and power supply should be in on Friday so i can hook up all the stepper motors!

Looks good, Cuse. Just needs the bed and it's done! Besides the electronics, of course.

I just wish I didn't have to tilt my head, till it hurts, to the left to see the pics properly! LOL

Hey man it works. Got the spindle going and all 3 axes

It's kinda slow cause I have it all turned down for safety until I get the limit switches on. I tested it at 200mm/s and it does fine.

Can you tell me what type of screws you used for the ends of the z-axis v slot? Did you tap them separately or use self tapping screws? If you use self tappers, does that make it a one time deal ( i.e. you can't undo it and do it back up again ) or does it make a reusable thread?

I tapped the ends of all the axes using my m5x8mm screws. It took about 15min per screw. I used vegetable oil for lubricant and dabbed off the removed aluminum with a paper towel. I can definitely remove and rescrew the screws. I think self-tapping screws can have problems cause they will re-tap if you screw them in wrong the second time. Maybe if you just used one self-tapping screw on all the holes and then after it's tapped use a normal screw it will be reuseable?

Thanks, I don't really want to buy a dedicated tap and die for just a couple of holes, but I also know that pretty much every screw I have used has been in and out multiple times before I have worked out how it is supposed to go together.

Also, I borrowed your 20x80 z axis idea. Works better with my custom spindle mount, and should be a bit more stable.

Umm... M5x0.8 taps can be had for as little as $1.99. Not great quality at that price but they will still save you about 14 minutes per hole.

Cheapest I can find in the UK is closer to $10.

Here are some files based on my version of the Routy CNC, I hope it helps in the parts list debate but bear in mind this version is slightly different from the openbuilds version.

1. I use Domed bolts a lot more, I think it helps make the machine look a little better than using T-Nuts or Low Profile screws
2. My Z axis is different, I think it is simpler and it utilizes the anti-backlash Delrin Nut featured on this forum elsewhere, mine has been adapted to suit V-Slot and Makerslide profiles and it is thicker than the one featured elsewhere.
3. I use Cast connectors rather than L plates a lot more on my builds, I think it gives the machine a bit more rigidity.... Routy-Y-Axis2.pdf
4. I use 4 hole Plates instead of 3.
5. Other stuff may be different as well!
6. I hope, given time, to produce a reference for the X and Y axis the same as I have on the Z, plus reference charts for the gantry sections, arms and other parts. I will upload them when they are complete.
7. The build will change again soon as I want to utilize other components to make the build simpler. I will post details again when the build changes.

hello all from spain!
I'm finishing the this project. I have used a cnc shield grbl (without soldering), arduino and pololu 4988.
This week will have a lead screw (from UK).
I will post photos soon! (I hope).
Sorry for my english.

Great job. I would prefer a thicker z axis if you are going to put a lot of weight on it though. Maybe even a double gantry plate somehow? Some of those routers are huge!

welcome, nice to see lots of builds coming together

I don't think the Routy as it stands warrants a thicker Z axis... in my eyes it is has been developed to cut ply woods, mdf, plastics, even thin soft metals like aluminium sheet. Of course given the right build and the right spindle with of course the proper tool bit it can cut far more materials than that as is proven by Mark's use of his Routy machine to cut Garolite, however I would still class the Routy as a very light CNC machine so putting a large router on the frame is expecting a little too much.

The OX is far better suited for the larger Routers.

This is how my Z axis works... it uses SK shaft supports which come in a great deal of sizes, any of which can be placed onto the 2020 horizontal profile.. and it is very rigid but it does lose a portion of the Y axis cut length.

I like the flexi shaft spindle on your site, but 43W seems a little light even for wood. How does it perform on a routy?

I hope to make a video of it cutting soon, lack of time just beats me. This spindle will actually cut brass and aluminium, but it is a light spindle, more of a hobby spindle if you like but it will cut a lot of materials with the correct tool bit. The correct tool bit is far more important than spindle ability or power.

The PhlatPrinter has as standard a flexshaft as a spindle. I cut with it many materials including pcbs. I didn't cut aluminium because the machine is made of MDF and you can't even let it smell liquid, otherwise I would have cut thicker metal with it.

I'm thinking of using a Raspberry Pi with the piTFT from adafruit to interface with my Arduino and GRBL shield.

http://www.adafruit.com/products/1601

Hey guys! Grand opening of Protodrake.ca!
10% of all orders this week using coupon code : grand opening
The 10% also works for the Routy kits!
Hope to see you all soon!

Back with another question. What are people using for lubricant on their leadscrew? A specialist product or something more general?

Could I use the same electronics bundle as used on the Ox? In the build sheet it says to use the version 5 shield. Also the guy who sells the bundle is out of stock anywhere else to buy them in the USA?

Yes, you could. There are lots of options for electronics, including the TinyG, the gShield and the protoneer CNC shield. All three are good choices for the Routy. You just need to make sure that whatever you buy can provide enough current for your motors.

I currently have it working with a gShield v5 (by synthetos, website says it will be back in stock mid-February ) on an Arduino U3. Loading software into Arduino was pretty simple ( https://github.com/grbl/grbl/wiki/Flashing-Grbl-to-an-Arduino using Windows and XLoader) and Sketchup with PhlatBoyz SketckUCam add-in. Still playing around cutting some 1/4" plywood for practice, to make better brackets to hold Dremel tool. I have ordered some garlite and aluminum from McMasters Carr which should get here today, then I may try some V-Plates. Playing around with different bits and speeds. Setup seems pretty robust, I had to change around the wires until I got everything running the right direction, and nothing burned out. Does seem I will need to run this pretty slow to keep accurate with multiple passes ... I plan to try tgFX and TinyG at some point in the future, plus the gShield v5 with Arduino Due as it will automatically switch to the 3.3 volts.

Were did you guys end up buying the lead screw and nut? I don't see it on the open builds site.

There was some info about this in earlier emails that I followed ... here is what I ordered. I modified the Flange Nut into a wood block ... note this includes two 12" lead screws ...

Shipping for 3-day Fedex was about $12 for sending to Texas ...

Seems to work good for me ... I measured and calibrated the setting based on actual movement.


Part NumberDescriptionQtyLengthUnit PriceLine Price
60764Hi-Lead Screw, 1/4 X .250, RH, Stainless Steel
Lead time: 1 - 2 business days212.00$14.94$29.88
91948Hi-Lead Flange Nut, 1/4 X .250, RH, Plastic
Lead time: 1 - 2 business days1$13.71$13.71
91186Hi-Lead Threaded Mount Nut, 1/4 X .250, RH, Plastic
Lead time: 1 - 2 business days1$27.29$27.29
Note:Sub Total:
Tax:
Shipping & Handling:

Total:$70.88
$.00
$.00

$70.88
All shipping & handling costs not billed collect will be prepaid and added to the invoice.

By the way, seems Mark and most people now though are recommending an 8 mm screw ... for a bit more heft.