You can look at the TinyG site for info on power supplies, motors, etc.
https://github.com/synthetos/TinyG/wiki/TinyG-Start
For some general info on stepper motors try
http://reprap.org/wiki/Stepper_motor
especially as OpenBuilds store is out of stock on these again.
I also modified a PC power supply and use it in addition to the MeanWell 24v supply for 5v, 12v.
But for Routy I run Dremel tool off 115v line ... for motor electronics/driver I am using same as OX ...
https://github.com/synthetos/grblShield with Arduino Uno R3.
All I have milled so fairs Garlite, I will try some aluminum after I get some mills I have ordered. Mostly want to make some specialized brackets from some 1/8" and bar stock.
Working well so far, plan to tune up the machine then cut the plates for the Ox soon.

I am planning to let my Routy grow into an OX! Appreciate any comments on the following:

When I built my Routy, I already made it 480 mm wide, so I think the base Y-Axis section is good to go ... but I do plan to add more brackets to stiffen the base a bit.

I have ordered stuff to build the OX X-Z section ... and plan to add a set of holes to the OX brackets to make them work with 20x60 V-slot ... do you think there will be any strength problems with using the Routy bed with its 20x60 rails? Should I keep the brackets at the same height relative to the top of these Y-rails adding the holes 20 mm above the bottom 3, or should I move it up adding holes 20 mm below the top 4 holes in the Ox brackets? Anyone know offhand anything else that should be modified on OX X-Z section?

Also ordered new belts and pulleys, and will order from somewhere 3 Nema 23 motors (Store is out on these). I have also ordered the new 20 amp 24v power supply in the store ... just in case I need more juice for the bigger motors.

Should I post this here ... or somewhere else?

Yep, I bought it too. I bought the 10x10 and it was kind of tight. If I had to do it again I'll buy the one you linked.

What bearings have people used on the 6mm leadscrew? For some reason I overlooked the fact that the 625 2RS only have a 5mm bore.

I used 1/4 inch rod and these bearing from the parts store
R4-ZZ Ball Bearing - 5/8" x 1/4" x .196"

McMaster has 6mm ID with 13mm and 19mm od. I found these but you have to buys a pack of ten http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/kit825

I ended up getting a delron nut like used on the Shapeoko. I bought a piece of 8MM stainless steel rod from Mcmaster and Carr. They sell bearing that are 8mm ID and 16 od. I haven't picked them up yet. I haven't heard anyone mention the Inventables company are they not used by this group.

Ok, so I found a 6mm bearing with a 15mm outer diameter and figured double rubber shields would have to be ok so I ordered them up here: http://www.avidrc.com/product/1/bearings/116/6x15x5-Rubber-696-2RS-bearings.html

Hopefully they will do the trick.

One trick I have heard of is to use heat shrink tubing to shim a bearing for a better fit in the race or plate. Electric tape is a low tech solution. On another forum people were complaining of bearing runout in dremel tools. In reality the bearings were good just a poor fit in the dremel body. Guys used the tape or heat shrink tubing to shim them to take out the play. Good luck.

Were you looking for 6x16? http://www.avidrc.com/product/1/bearings/43/6x16x5-Rubber-696A-2RS-bearings.html

The plate seems to accept a 15mm bearing snugly so I went with 15. Others have said that they have had luck with 16 but even at 16mm it is a "very thin" series of bearing so I figured I would go with what appears to fit. I ordered some with rubber bearings and some with metal. I'll still probably get them before I get my electronics after I sent the first order to Guam on accident.

Thanks for the tip, I will pick one up for sure. I'm kind of OCD about loose wires anyway.

Forrest, How did the aluminum & garlite cutting go? Also what Microstepping setting have you found works best with the gShield 1x, 2x, 4x, or 8x?

More parts came today in the mail. I am hot to get going but having trouble finding the electronic. The power supply is out of stock. And the G shield and Ardrino bundle are out as well. Any other places I could get them. I am a newbie and I need something easy to put together and configure. Is the power supply a garden variety unit. I see similar ones on ebay but I don't want to end up with the wrong one. Thanks in advance for your input.

Have you taken a look at the Ox build video's yet? The Ox and routy use the same components as far as the electronics go according to the parts list. How to wire everything up is demonstrated in the video as well. OpenBuilds used a 12V power supply there not sure of any of the other stats on the supply they used. I just recently got my power supply from work. I plan to use the recommended (in the video) 24V power supply that is rated for up to 10 amps. Should be enough to easily supply routy and I can use the same supply when I upgrade routy to a Ox later. In case your interested I have a 24V 10A supply. Model number ABL 1REM24100. See attached PDF.

https://synthetos.myshopify.com/collections/assembled-electronics/products/gshield-v5 has the shields still available. After that just pick up the arduino and your done. You can get an arduino at https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11021 or http://www.adafruit.com/products/50. Don't use your 24V to supply your arduino directly. I would recommend powering the arduino over USB. The gshield will need a 24V or 12V supply however.

Thanks Vic I didn't know that the Gshield could be powered by a 24Volt power supply. I will look at the other sites. I don't hear any talk about the Inventables company. Maybe they are to similar to a mainstream big business and people prefer to get things from a more open businesses.

Vic,
I left the micro-stepping set to the default of 8, did not play around with it. Cutting garlite works good with setting in the OX plate files. I had some loose screws in the Routy, so disassembled it and put it back together a bit more square. Cutting anything with Routy and Dremel tool is a bit slow, but cut Garlite well ... dry and not too dusty. I just got my mills for aluminum, have not had a chance to play with it yet, but will start out with the feed setting in the files in the Alum OX build.

Synthetos has Gsheild without the shapeoko mod. It looks like all the mod is one jumper? I could do that myself.

Have a look at the gshield site for more info. I found the info about its voltage range 12V to 30V on the wiki there: https://github.com/synthetos/grblShield/wiki/Using-grblShield

As for the shapeoko mod ya its just 1 jumper on the V5 board.

hi all
someone could give me the settings for GRBL with NEMA 17?
pololu I'm using 4988, I have no doubt with $ 0, $ 1, $ 2 ... but I would like to optimize $4, $5 and the rest.
Thanks for all

Suggest you refer to picture in Step 8 of Routy Build ... seems to have the important ones.

Just spend 4 hours trying to find right combination to mill 1/8" think aluminum sheet to make some brackets. End result, think I will use Garlite! Never could get it to run consistently to cut with any sort of speed at all. Seemed to be an issue with motor power in Y and X directions. I will try a bigger power supply when I get it maybe this weekend, but problem mostly seems to be Dremel tool is not powerful enough, although maybe not, as I can push the aluminum sheet through the mill without too much force ... maybe the mill will just not cut well with the first mm or so of the bit? Or maybe this is a job for an OX? Perhaps back to Garlite milling for OX plates ... ;-)

I tried milling Aluminum with 1/8" mill at thickness from 0.1 to 0.5 mm and speed from 10 mm to 200 mm, no joy! See previous post ... could be 24v power supply does not have enough juice for 3 X,Y motors under heavy lode ...its a Mean Well RS-150-24, with 150 watts output should be around 6.2 amps ... I may put a volt meter on it tomorrow and try again.

What kind of issues were you running into? and were you using LUBE? I have been doing some Aluminum on my big joescnc2006, and a little WD40 sprayed at the cut area now and then did wonders!

used WD-40, did not seem to help ...

Mostly just seemed to stall out, which is why I think it is a power issue.

I think you need to go even shallower on your cuts. .1mm is .039 inches and I could not get good cuts at .040 inches. try at .05mm. I made my good cuts at 30ipm, .025 DOC. 24k RPM. with a 1/4in single flute carbide bit.

.039" is nearly 1 mm ... I was talking in mm ... so I tried much less than this. I would be happy to get 1/64", 0.4 mm. You were really moving ... maybe I am trying to go too slow. I am limited to 1/8" bit and about 15k rpm, so surface of bit is moving about 20% the speed of yours, and 30 ipm would be about 760 mm/min. About 4x my fastest try. I will check voltages tomorrow and maybe try at faster rate, with 2 flute carbide bit.

How powerful is your motor ... seems jonescnc206 is made for full size router ... as compared to my little Dremel. I may have to put off the aluminum unit I get my OX mods done.

Yep bad math on my part. lol. Thought I had devided 1in by 254 which would be tenth mm, but I had not. lol. And yes the JoesCNC2006 is a big 350lb 24x48inch machine.

Yes I am running a 2.25 hourse router. On your dremel what kind of bit? how many flutes? Max RPM on the dremel? I have seen people with shapokos cut aluminum with a dremel on 12v steppers.