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Laser V

Discussion in 'Laser Cutters' started by Robert Hummel, Nov 30, 2013.

  1. JCPhlux

    JCPhlux Journeyman Builder

    tonight I was bored and so I mocked up my design.
    Mockup.png
  2. JCPhlux

    JCPhlux Journeyman Builder

    better render Mockup2.png
    Robert Hummel and Wojtek like this.
  3. Wojtek

    Wojtek Journeyman Builder

    [​IMG]
    could someone confirm that LD+ and LD- is for the laser diode, input thats where the power comes in (i know thats obvious) and the output of input could be used for the fans to remove the exhaust. is the reset pins for the arduino like a cancel button. and what is the negative pins for
  4. Robert Hummel

    Robert Hummel Custom Builder Staff Member Builder

    LD+ , LD- are for the diode connection
    The reset is for the arduino
    The negative pins are for limit switches
  5. Wojtek

    Wojtek Journeyman Builder

    Robert Hummel how did you connect the fans up to a power supply because it comes with a 3 pin connector.
  6. Robert Hummel

    Robert Hummel Custom Builder Staff Member Builder

    Most pc fans have 3 wires, my fans are only 2 wire.
    For you the black is negative and your positive would be yellow in most cases
  7. JCPhlux

    JCPhlux Journeyman Builder

    The third wire is just a tachometer.
  8. Wojtek

    Wojtek Journeyman Builder

    So if I only plug up the positive and negative it will it run full power
  9. Robert Hummel

    Robert Hummel Custom Builder Staff Member Builder

    Yes :)
    JCPhlux likes this.
  10. Wojtek

    Wojtek Journeyman Builder

    i need something the contain the laser cutter that will easy enough to cut out a area for the fan i would have liked to use acrylic but it only goes up to a size of 1250 width but i need a bit more than 1500.
    Any ideas?
  11. JCPhlux

    JCPhlux Journeyman Builder

    For the sides I am just going to use MDF. I might make MDF cage with a small acrylic window.
    Robert Hummel likes this.
  12. Robert Hummel

    Robert Hummel Custom Builder Staff Member Builder

    @JCPhlux
    I will be milling/testing your plates tomorrow :)
  13. JCPhlux

    JCPhlux Journeyman Builder

    That is sweet. Now if openbuild will ship my order :)
  14. Robert Hummel

    Robert Hummel Custom Builder Staff Member Builder

    I'm sure you will see it soon the move has taken a lot of work for them and they have had a few bumps along the way
  15. JCPhlux

    JCPhlux Journeyman Builder

    Move? guess I am not read-up on what is going on.
  16. Robert Hummel

    Robert Hummel Custom Builder Staff Member Builder

    Yes you caught them in a mid move to a new facility to handle the onslaught of orders :)
  17. Wojtek

    Wojtek Journeyman Builder

    what should i use that is cheap and in big enough size to be put under and on top of the laser.
    i will probably put acrylic window in it
  18. Tweakie

    Tweakie OpenBuilds Team Staff Member Builder


    Perhaps bear in mind that another of the dangers associated with using lasers is one of fire. Obviously it depends to a large extent on the material being worked but if a work-piece ‘flare-up’ does occur, it can be a very rapidly developing process so be prepared. If you can avoid using combustible materials for your enclosure then so much the better also perhaps bear in mind that although they both burn well ‘extruded acrylic’ will drip flaming particulates when burning whereas ‘cast acrylic’ will not.


    For your own (and others) safety an operating laser machines should never, under any circumstances, be left running whilst unattended because of the risk of fire.

    In addition other reasonable / common sense safety measures should be put in place, such as not keeping / storing flammable materials near to a laser machine – having a suitable fire extinguisher within easy reach of the operator – having a planned building exit strategy should a fire get out of hand – etc. etc.


    In all things, safety should always take priority - basically if something can possibly happen then sooner or later it will happen.

    Please stay safe folks. ;)


    Tweakie.
  19. Wojtek

    Wojtek Journeyman Builder

    Do you know of anyplace you can get a metal sheet 1.6m long and wide

    or what did you use to put under the laser because i believe you would use something very safe
  20. Tweakie

    Tweakie OpenBuilds Team Staff Member Builder

    How about doing a Google search for metal sheet suppliers in your area ?

    1.6M x 1.6M is not a standard sheet size so you will most likely have to join 2 pieces of material to achieve this. :)

    Tweakie.
  21. Woodie49

    Woodie49 Journeyman Builder

    Boy, I'm having a Hell of a time getting all for the wheels to turn freely!
  22. JCPhlux

    JCPhlux Journeyman Builder

    Sweet parts shipped today. Parked as partial shipped. Anyone have more details on what that means
    video?
  23. Woodie49

    Woodie49 Journeyman Builder

  24. JCPhlux

    JCPhlux Journeyman Builder

    Hmm, hard to help without anything to go on.
  25. Woodie49

    Woodie49 Journeyman Builder

    I don't have it runing. Been tring to get all the wheels to turn freely. Some do and some don't. I'm abouth ready to junk to whole thing.
  26. JCPhlux

    JCPhlux Journeyman Builder

    Well if you cant help us trouble shoot the issue that might be your only course. I understand your are frustrated but saying it does not work does not give us anything to work with on helping you come up with a viable solution.
  27. Woodie49

    Woodie49 Journeyman Builder

    I don't know how to say it , I can't get all the wheels ajusted so thet all turn.
  28. Tweakie

    Tweakie OpenBuilds Team Staff Member Builder

    @Woodie49 just a couple of possibilities - you may have...

    Incorrect spacer size between wheel bearing pairs causing the wheels to run stiff.
    Incorrect alignment between wheels on the same side of the track - incorrect alignment between wheels on opposing sides of the track - or a combination of both.
    Dimensional inaccuracy / squareness problems with the assembly of your rails.

    Tweakie.
  29. bit53b

    bit53b Well-Known Builder

    Hi Robert,
    Can I ask a question about the 2x 330 uF caps on the board that you have placed between Vmot and Gnd. This is in addition to the 2 x 100 uF which are placed close to Vmot pin 11, and which appear in most stepstick circuits. I wondered if you needed to add the extra smoothing caps because you found problems with noise, or maybe they are there just as a precaution? Reason I ask is because I am playing around with a similar stepstick arrangement for the first time, and any operational feedback is valuable (except from the motors of course ;-) )
  30. Robert Hummel

    Robert Hummel Custom Builder Staff Member Builder

    They are there as precaution and because the 5v reg is feeding from the same line as the stepsticks I wanted to be sure no problems would arise for the logic.
    Hope that makes sence
    JCPhlux likes this.

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