No problem I have a UK supplier for you KJN Good price, good service, I have ordered from them, so no worries.

what about this way! iv done it on my printer to and it works

thank you buddy

It is true that this system is awesome! But we can see in this video what happens, the Z axis is constantly solicited in both direction. To make things right, we should add lead-screws and anti-backlash nut on Z axis. I am not convinced that this is a good deal ... But why not on a machine that are not static / movable / foldable.

Oops, I made a mistake in the parts list, and many other oversights...

- The mistake : Stepper motors for X and Y axis must be Big Stepper, but for for Z axis it must be Small Stepper.

Anyway, I'll re-draw a version of the Z motor mount for larger motors (as soon as possible).

Oversights :
- 5 x Tee Nuts (25 Pack)
- Drop In Tee Nuts (optional, but very useful for adding upgrade quickly)
- 4 x M5 Nylon Insert Hex Locknut
- 22 x M3 x 10mm
- 4 x M3 x ???mm Depending on the thickness of your y-plate.
- 4 x M3 Nylon Insert Hex Locknut

hi hows the build going? are you going to add a LCD controller as i can not see how it can be added to the Smoothieboard

Several solutions, I2C and/or SPI Pin breakout or else SmoothiePanel (in dev)

Hello

Small update, I did a test at 100 mm/s, and the result is not too bad.
Video : https://www.dropbox.com/s/0x2wr5d6r9plb33/2014-01-20 15.57.30.mp4



But at that speed, a new extruder is a must!
I lost too much time the last day trying to draw the best extruder possible, but nothing is left ... except a dirty upgrade which works not bad.



I have uploaded the new files until I find a better solution.
- extruder flange - dirty upgrade.stl
- extruder idler - dirty upgrade.stl

At the moment I prefer to spend my time doing a build manual and print a maximum of things to validate the concept.

Peace.

Hi Artists.

Another update. I start the build manual. I chose to do it on the RepRap Wiki, because I relying on you to help me correct / complete the manual and the other pages feel free to edit. Do not hesitate to tell me if this is not clear, and what I can change..

As I'm an idiot, I still forgot things in the parts list :
- 12 x Aluminum Spacers
- 18 x Mini V Precision Shim
- 1 xMini Hyena v2
- 1 x J-Head
- 2 x 40mm Fan,
- 1 x 30mm Fan
- 3 x Mechanical Endstop

I added a changelog on the index page to miss anything.
I have added a 2mm spacer for Nema with >20mm shaft (X axis only).
I have uploaded all STL's in a Zip file, and replaced the SKP file.

Peace.

nice looking build manual. Will a E3Dv5 hotend fit?

skarab do you have a UK supplier for the 10 start 25mm pitch fast lead screw and nut and the Acme lead screw and nut? as the in port tax to the UK is all most as much as the lead screw's them self's :-(

I'm not sure. As I will redraw the extrude, I would more compatible versions.

Unfortunately not ... I am looking for a long time ... The manufacturer is http://www.pbclinear.com/ but they do not sell to individuals. I dream that OpenBuilds can do something: P

Thanks @skarab this printer is fantastic, I found it to be an easy build so far, and hope to be printing within a week or so. I am very impressed with the precision of the whole unit, but wouldn't the Y-Carriage be more stable with the wheels riding on top of the v-slot like a car,? Instead of hugging the sides. I'd love to have the talent to design a version, but my schetch up files like like a child made them.

Hello,

@abazabba very happy for you

For the X axis or Y? For X, as proposed, a profile of 20x40 would be better, in the same configuration. If it is for the Y, no problem it is very stable.

@everybody if you are crazy enough to build a Lautr3k I'm Looking for photos and comments on the construction. Do not hesitate!

Last night I updated the build manual, I hope to finish it soon. Not enough time ... and many things to build.

Peace.

@abazabba Thank you for the pictures, it's really cool to see another Lautr3k come to life: 9 Your feet is a very good idea. I did a test with smaller and rubber.


I made a small mistake in the final stages of the manual, I forget the T-Nut for Z motor mount. I will correct tomorrow.

Arghh, I didn't put the spacer in-between the bearings in the wheels, I am very thankful of your through build manual, but now I''m going to tear it down and add that.
I had to add the feet, my Z-motors were too big and stuck out, they were not the ones you specify in the BOM. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13599
my problem with the Y-Carriage is due mainly to the poor print I have of it, i will reprint it hopefully without it curling, and I don't doubt it will be very stable.

I found these lead screws online, they might be an alternative to the Trinity Labs ones.
http://www.mooreinternational.co.uk/category-32/SPEEDYSTANDT12-25screw.html
The mounting would have to be slightly modified.

@Cary Beaty Hooo nice find. I can not find information on engineered ends ... but it looks very promising

I've updated the build manual, I hope to finish this weekend.

Peace.

About the Lead Screws......

I'm thinking that because the guide rods are now replaced with v-slot, and the bearing guides replaced with wheels, the resistance to motion should be very low. Combined with a bowden extruder this would make an excellent test bed for thread-less ball screws. I'm ordering parts to make this happen now, will post results here when I get it done.

Is this the same as the (10 start 25mm pitch fast lead screw and nut) then? if so what thread option and what nut should we pick?

Sorry for my bad English but I have a question.
Aluminum beams their sizes
20x20 mm
L =430mm - 4
L=440 mm - 2
L= 480 mm - 2
40x20mm
L=430 mm - 2
L=520 mm - 2
And Yes about guides screws I talked with a friend engineer, he decided that he also might be the best D=12 step 4
I hope you understand me))
Guides screws
L=310mm - 2
L= 373mm - 2
Right I wrote all of the dimensions?


thank you

@Aravoth I am very excited to see the result of your test.

@carl These are not quite the same :
Tinitylabs : D = 12mm, L = 370mm, 10 Start, 25mm Pitch, Anti-Backlash Nut and Machined ends. (100$)
Moore : D = 12mm, L = 300mm, 5 start, 25mm Pitch, Plastic Nut and No Machined ends. (66.74£ / 111$)
Finally, the first choice is the best.

@makkss sorry, I'm not sure I understand your question. But if you want the parts list, you will find here: http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/lautr3k.379/

What you used electronics? What firmware for electronics and software for printing?


In the earlier thank

Electronics : SmoothieBoard
Firmware : SmoothieFirmware
Host : Repetier Host
Slicer : Slic3r (integrated in Repetier Host)

Just found one for sale as a complete kit:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=151241079068
or search for eBay item number: 151241079068

Héhé this is awesome! The kit looks very good. I thought not see one so soon. Very happy

I love this printer, once i got it even closed to calibrated it outperforms my two previous builds by leaps and bounds. Now I think I have it dialed in and the results are amazing, so precise and clean, perfect circles, really impressed, pics to follow... Now i think i'll need to break down my printrbot and convert it to one of these. Thank you for sharing Skarab!

p.s. I love the repetier firmware, it's super programable, and works so well with it's host.

nice one!! do you have any pictures? and did you use the Smoothieboard on your one ?