How do I know what length lead screw to look for? We are not going to find another 10 start I suspect, so will need to look for a lead screw with the most starts possible. Anyone have any other thoughts?

hi Sebastien
have you got a 300mm x 300mm bed yet for your Lautr3k ? if so i would like to ask you for help to test print something for me as i can print it on mine but it takes 22 hours 34 mins to print it! but i need to be able print it faster . can you look at it for me Please and see if its possible to do it the print is here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:213767/#files .. and it is the STL called AMAZED_board_one_piece.stl

try http://www.mooreinternational.co.uk/category-32/SPEEDYSTANDT12-25screw.html

@carl your game is beautiful. But sorry, still no bed of 300x300, it is not necessary for me at the moment.
Unfortunately I do not have time to print them your board games.

@Todd

@carl for your game if you plan to distribute it, the better would be to print once a mold, and then inject a resin.

thank you Sebastien
just had to ask! just in case you had time or could .. yes i was hoping to distribute it but only print to order at the moment it takes 22 hours 34 mins to make one Game with two printers the Lautr3k and my 8" prusa

A full ramps 1.4 will be fine. I have a I3v Prussa system from MakerFarm. The build on this site is:
http://www.openbuilds.com/threads/bobs-3d-printer-kit-build.427/

It uses a Ramps 1.4 elecronics setup and works just fine.

Bob

Yes the RAMPs is a good choice.

Looking forward to see this.

Robert - Yes the kit it a good price for what is in it. Also I have a V5 extruder that I am converting to V6 and have been able to boil abs in it without a problem. The only flaw in the v5 was the attachment of the thermistor to the heater block and that was solved with "Muffler and Tailpipe Sealer" puddy. Once installed never to be removed. I also like the fact that they are using clamping method of attachment on the heater element on the V6 as the v5 used a set screw and it was possible to move the heater element because of that.

Otherwise you are going down the correct track.

Bob

For travel without printing, I go up to 180mm/Seconds. Faster it starts to vibrate too much.

this is looking cool were did you get that bed plate ? i would love one of them

wow Robert Hummel i feel another build for me coming on

1/16 th for more fluid movement. I think with the openbuilds screws you must go to 80mm/s without no problems, after that it may bend, especially with supported ends of each side.
http://machinedesign.com/linear-motion/importance-ballscrew-end-fixity

i have been having a similar problem so im going to trying thz when the come http://www.ebay.com/itm/271419276953 BUT a frend of mine has got them but he has seid (QUOTE) Be carefull, these are used the other way around.... What I mean is the trim pot goes opposite end to the current drivers, you'll also need to alter jumpers under driver and unfortunately you'll need to re do your firmware as the distances will then be all wrong (end QUOTE ).......but i do seem to have it salted at the mo by just messing around with all settings its not perfect yet but works, i hole the new drivers may help ..i hope this helps you in some way

this looks cool were can we buy the parts or are they not for sale yet ? would really like to start building one

is it possible to extend the X axis? and what is the limit?