Hi @skarab, i'm just 18 years old and very interested in 3D-printing. I have some experience with 3D-printing and i would like to build your printer.
I was going trough the text file of the smoothieboard and i saw that you just used a smoothieboard with 3 stepper drivers. How do you connect the motors for the Z-axis? Just connect both motors parallel?

hi skarab The Lautr3k build is alive but i'm having trouble with the x axis any ideas what it can be ?

@michielR like answered on FB: yes paralelle
@carl like answered on FB: For X-axis, unlock the nut on the x-carriage and move (with the host) the carriage to the right, if no probleme... relock the nut...

...and the exciting results :


Peace

Try this as it will resolve the burnout problem from the mosfet on the ramps.

http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/printer-electronics/heat-bed-relay.html

Bob

Are there lead screws that will work besides the trinity labs ones? I would prefer to lower the price, as speed is more of a luxury for me at this time.

Perhaps with that of Openbuilds. But it would redraw parts.
http://openbuildspartstore.com/8mm-metric-lead-screw-acme/

except they are out of stock, and I would have to have them cut as they are 1000mm. seems like the best way is just to go with the Trinity Labs ones, plus the printing videos of the Lautr3k I have seen on you tube look great, so why mess with a good thing.

Very Nice design. I had been planning on going with a Wilson TS variant of the Prusa, but this seems like a logical progression of that with a larger build size, and no belts. I am sooo looking forward to getting started on this.

is there anyone using 3mm filament on with there lautr3k??? as i'm having a bit of trouble with the extruder and would like to rule out the 3mm filament.. and can not work out why i tried everything i can think of but no luck

I've been thinking all the day, and two ideas came :

1 - Have you add two washers on the sides of the bearing?

2 - When I changed the size of the hole for 3mm, i did not fall by 1.25mm the bearing hole,
but I do not think it makes a big difference... in doubt, i updated the part : extruder idler - 3mm - dirty upgrade - 2.stl

Hope this help you...

still the same wiv 2 thank you for trying Sébastien Mischler.... what about the http://shop.arcol.hu/item/mini_hyena_5mm_cr do you think it could be that as im using 3mm ?

i just don't think there is the torque for this extruder for 3mm ..as if i just give it a little push it can do it but as soon as i let go it start's again

I don't see anything on web for that mini hyena about 1.75 or 3.0 filament

Excellent @carl congratulations Good job on the extruder.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:327798
Lautr3k E3Dv5 Extruder for 3mm filament

i think TL is death agian, i order my fast lead screws are no answers from this shop

Any news from them. I am hoping to start my build in a month or so, a new job and relocation is putting a delay to my start.

Yes my package arrive me
are i think the same i become cheaper from igus.de .
I will test this.

has anyone who has build the Lautr3k used the hol bed yet? as i am having really hard time getting the y or x not to skip...iv tryed lots of thing's now and just can not get it to do a almost full bed print

@Tweakie yes i've tried both of those suggestions
i have a fan blowing air onto my circulate around the stepper drivers also On the std steppers the trimming pot is a bit of a misnomer, I had multimeter out and they actually only have an effective rage of 1/4 of a turn from 0 amps to 4 amp, and as the chips only rated to 2 amps it's over powering it. I back mine off (anti clockwise) until the motors don't have enough power to move the mechanism, then give a small tweak clockwise until they move it, but the drivers do get hot. im also ordered some of thz im hoping they are going to help http://www.ebay.com/itm/271419276953

How fast is your acceleration settings? some moves at high speed / acceleration can skip steps.

not very hot

i'm printing with these settings now! and so far are working

The output and speed of this printer look fantastic!

So an alternative for the Trinity Labs lead screw is definitely needed... because Trinity Labs has shut down:

"It is with deep regret that TrinityLabs, LLC is now closed.We have had some amazing highs and very difficult lows, however have decided to discontinue operations. We are very thankful for the welcoming we've received from the 3D printing community and for all of your support."

I was just about to place an order too! Does anyone have any alternative options besides those listed here so far?

wow that stinks, I was hoping to order in the next month once my sudden job change get settled. Not sure if I saw a replacement on igus for the lead screw.