Update...
The lead screws I have chosen are from Roton.com .375 inch (9.525mm) x 1.0 inch (25.4mm) lead for x and y with anti-backlash nuts. The z axis will be .375 inch (9.525 mm) x .05 inch (1.27 mm) lead with regular acme nuts. I have to machine the ends. I have the frame built...it is beautiful! I have a dual (Bowden style) extruder designed for ABS and HIPS and dual custom hotends. The dual extruder/hotend setup will allow me to print HIPS supports and dissolve in Limonene leaving only the ABS model. I believe the prints will be very high quality with this setup. I have to test it...and can't wait! Thanks again.

skarab can you please make a extruder_idler__-_dirty_upgrade with a bigger hole for 3mm filament ?

done, http://www.openbuilds.com/attachments/extruder-idler-3mm-dirty-upgrade-stl.2004/ I hope this is good for you
As promised when I received my E3D hotend, I remake an extruder.

cool thank skarab! and that will be even better when you do the E3D remake as that is what i'm going to use.. are getting 1.75 or 3.mm?..oh also what do you use to hold the min v Bearings in the idler as i can not see in your photos ?

So I got my reprinted parts and I installed everything. My y-carriage doesn't hop anymore. also put in new bearings. My problem now is the stage it came with (wood) isn't flat. It's waviness shows up in my print quality. What are you guys using for stages?

@carl i took 1.75mm, and to support the bearing, just a piece of 5mm diameter rod (old NEMA17 recycled).
@ronniebelmar I'm sorry, I do not understand the question. (I recall I do not speak English) can you rephrase? thank you.

thank you skarab

skarab can you fix the extuder_flange_-_dirty_upgrade.stl Screw hole please

what is the problem with this hole? you need to take a M3x40 and cut a good length. It is necessary that the screw, once clamped to the max, does not block the movement of the lever. If I reduce the thickness, I fear it is too brittle.

I see now.. i was trying to do a video and was using m3x30's.. so if you countersunk screw hole like the other two m3 x 30 will hold it to tight then ?

Sorry I said some stupid things! I drew this piece for M3x30mm countersunk.

i see thank you

hi skarab. have you received your E3D hotend yet? i'm just wanting for some 6.35mm x 5mm Flexible Coupling to turn up and then i can finish my Lautr3k

hi skarab is this 410.2 or 412mm i'm trying to work out how you measure the .2?

Yesss, sorry, I got the E3D. I'm really busy right now (I'm trying to set up my small business). I started designing a new extruder, but I'm not happy ... I'll do my best, but I guarantee nothing. Otherwise I'll adapt a wade greg's like: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:291980 or http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:291291.

Yes, it is 410.2mm to be very accurate (I am Swiss ^ ^) but do not worry about it, as long as the distance between the Z-axis are the same on top and bottom.

hi skarab i'm having a problems with the x end- bearing side-in.png and the x end - motor side -in.png they just keep snapping. i've tried making them stronger but with no luck. am i the only one with this problem ? if so what do you think i maybe doing wrong ?

Hi Carl, sorry for you.

Normally no force is required to slide the nut in the x-ends. If you can change the SKP and enlarge the hole a bit. Or it must file down a bit.

That said if it breaks due to excessive force, this is normal, the part at this point is small. But if the layers split, it is surely the extrusion temperature too low, or the fan blowing too hard on the print.

Keep me informed.

Peace.

thank you skarab
i'm trying this way now and going well so far but if it does not work then i'll try it your way

Really cool, your solution is much better , thank you for your contributions when you are ready, send me the STL's, thank you.

I've added the STL'S to your thingiverse as a remix

It was anticipated and it's done

oh do i get any more Trophy points for this update ?

oh i see you have 28 hmmm but you are a OpenBuilds Team staff Member lol IT'S A FIX

im going to try a RAMPS 1.4 one more time but if it burns out again i'm going to use your Smoothieboard. skarab were did you get your Smoothieboard from plz?

http://smoothieware.org/getting-smoothieboard
But there is no reason that the RAMPs does not work ...

yes i know... it was my 300mm x 300mm heatbed is why it did not work.. that mosfet on RAMPS for the heated bed is only rated at around 11A, so i am guessing the silicone heated bed blew the RAMPS up